Caviar 101
Oysters and caviar have long been heralded as the quintessential New Years Eve pairing. This year, oyster farmers and seafood distributors alike are ensuring that enthusiasts can still enjoy oysters and caviar with their loved ones in the comfort in their homes.
I had the opportunity to chat with Matt Brown, one of the co-owners and co-founders of SoPo Seafood, a locally owned and operated Maine Seafood Wholesaler and Online Fish Market, about all things caviar. Matt has over 30 years experience in the Maine Seafood and Hospitality industries as a chef, fishmonger, and wholesale distributor, and knows a thing or two about purchasing, serving, and storing caviar.
Matt kindly bestowed upon me his vast knowledge of the caviar trade, and also jumped on camera with me to slurp some briny bivalves with caviar bumps.
An Intro to Caviar
While “caviar” was originally meant for sturgeon roe, it has now grown to encompass any types of fish egg from all over the world—from the juicy orange-hued pearls of the smoky Alaskan Salmon Roe, to the petite amber pearls of the Osetra Sturgeon, hailing from Israel. Unlike oysters, which typically take between 2-4 years to reach market size, depending on the locale and water temperature, caviar requires a long life cycle, as sturgeon will need anything from 7–30 years in order to reproduce. Unfortunately, the pursuit of caviar has driven many species of wild sturgeon into endangerment, and the importation of their roe is legally prohibited. Now, most of caviar is from farmed sturgeon carefully raised and matured in aquaculture systems. Caviar farms from around the world have understandably popped up, given its lucrative nature, from China to the USA to Israel to Poland.
Tips for Buying Caviar
1. Yes, Caviar Can be Affordable
One of the biggest misconceptions about caviar is that buying a 1 oz or 2 oz can is a surefire way to break the bank. While certain caviars like Osetra or a Siberian can run upwards of $95/1 oz., there are more affordable options available on the market today. If you are a first-time caviar consumer, Matt recommends starting off with a fruity and nutty Hackleback caviar, which comes from the wild American sturgeon. Or, skip the sturgeon, and consider a cured roe, such as juicy and smoky Salmon Roe, commonly found in sushi or Asian-inspired dishes, These are great entry-level options that pair well with other fish and carb options like blinis and crackers, and typically come in at under $30/1 oz tin.
2 Know the Species
When shopping for caviar, you should be aware of the sturgeon species, the country of origin, and the farm harvest date (all legitimate imported caviar is farm-raised due to the protective ban on wild sturgeon stocks). Every importer is required by federal law to have a CITES Permit (the Convention for Trade in Endangered Species) to ensure species accuracy, a “Certificate of Origin”, and a “Labeling Report” that specifies the harvest date to ensure utmost high quality.
3 Traceability
You should be able to trace your tin of caviar with a lot number that refers to the supplier’s legal documentation. This is also required by the FDA in case of any food related contamination or recall.. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife monitor all caviar imported from outside the United States, and only purveyors with a CITES permit assures the origin and species of sturgeon are legitimate.
4 Freshness
All caviar must have a “best by” date. You should be able to find this on the caviar tin, or it should be easily provided upon inquiry.
5 Purchase the Appropriate Quantity
It is ideal to purchase containers you will consume in a single sitting to avoid having to store the opened caviar, and the chance of its freshness being affected. Thus, you may want to consider a couple of smaller tins rather than one larger one. For instance, generally consider to serve 1 oz of caviar per 1-2 guests.
Common Types of Caviar
Salmon Roe (Oncorhynchus keta) This classic “red caviar” hails from Alaska, and is notable for its luxurious, large red pearls that are pleasantly firm and “pop” when eaten. Salmon roe has a rich and sweet flavor, with a smoky finish almost akin to a smoked salmon. Salmon roe is an affordable alternative to more traditional sturgeon colors, and adds a pop of flavor to nigiri, sushi, or can be delicious on a spoon with some fresh Maine uni.
Hackleback Sturgeon (Scaphirhynchus Platorynchus): Hackleback (a.k.a shovelnose) is the last wild caught sturgeon caviar in North America, and is traditionally found in the river basins of Mississippi and Missouri. Being the world's smallest sturgeon, Hackleback produces a small caviar that is almost jet black in color. It makes up for its smaller size with a very pleasing firm texture and clean, mild flavor. Hackleback is a great “first-timer” caviar, and is delicious paired with blinis, oysters, or potatoes.
American White Sturgeon (Acipenser transmontanous): Native to California, white sturgeon caviar has long been admired for its pleasing texture, jet black color, and rich flavor. This caviar is clean on the palate and complemented by a creamy, lingering finish
Siberian Caviar (Acipenser Baerii): Imported from Poland, Siberian Caviar is oftentimes black-to-olive colored, with firm small-to-medium pearls, and exhibits a well-balanced, buttery flavor with a satisfying briny finish.
Osetra Caviar (Acipenser Gueldenstaedtii): Highly sought-after, the Osetra sturgeon produces a firm creamy caviar with a nutty finish. Hailing from the River Kibbutz in Israel, this classic amber colored caviar is of highest quality and has a rich and creamy flavor with a clean finish.
Caviar “Red Flags”
First-time buyers may get caught up in the glitz and glam of purchasing a jar of caviar, and can easily be swindled by certain demarcations or price points, falsely claiming to be caviar from a certain “type” of sturgeon.
1 Beware of Caviar Labeled “Russian” or “Caspian”
Anytime you see something labeled “Russian Osetra” or “Russian Imperial,” be cautious—“Russian” should refer to the species of sturgeon producing the caviar not the country of origin. Since 2005, all wild exported caviar hailing from the Caspian Sea, and all Russian Osetra Caviar has been closed since 2005 by CITES. Thus, if you see the word “Caspian” on the label, you should immediately proceed with caution – “Caspian” refers to sturgeon caught in the Caspian Sea that primarily borders Russia and Iran, and remains closed to the export of any caviar.
The reason you may continue to see the term “Russian Osetra” or “Caspian Sea Osetra” is because that is where the fish was originally wild caught. Nowadays, Osetra sturgeon are farmed all over the world. Italy, Belgium, France, and the USA are all now caviar-producing countries.
Thus, if your suspicions are raised, ask.
2 Caution When Buying “Beluga” Caviar
Pure beluga sturgeon are completely banned from import into the United States, as it primarily exists in the Caspian Sea. Since beluga sturgeon (huso huso) are globally banned, anything named “river beluga” is most likely the cousin, originating in China.
3 Be Wary of Caviar Labeled “Siberian Sturgeon” or “Osetra Sturgeon”
Caviar that is labeled “Siberian Osetra” is also misleading. The siberian sturgeon (acipenser baeri) is a separate species than osetra (acipenser gueldenstaedti). The osetra sturgeon produces a much larger grain than its cousin, the siberian Sturgeon, which is generally a smaller fish. Quite often, deceiving dealers falsely advertise and sell them interchangeably. Siberian caviar should also be less expensive.