The Story of Lowcountry Oyster Company
The best way to see the lowcountry is from the water.
The South Carolina morning mist circles low in the atmosphere, a swirl of marine and moss.
It had only taken me a few hours of being in Charleston for me to quickly conclude that this was an oyster town. There was no shortage of raw bars in the line-up of ornate federal-style buildings, with swathes of eager patrons waiting outside during the pre-service hours for a chance at coveted raw bar seats. During my early morning walk on King Street, I had heard passersby chatting about their plans to attend their first oyster roast of the season—a tradition clearly ingrained within the community. While I dipped in for a quick coffee at the Ryder, I noted the boutique hotel was promoting a collaboration with South Carolina's largest oyster farm, Lowcountry Oyster Co.
Thank you so much to Lowcountry Oyster Co Founder, Trey McMillan, and Eco Tour Manager, JB Borgstedt for such an educational and engaging insight into the South Carolina mariculture industry. I cannot recommend this experience enough.
"Oh, farm tours are something we've had a lot of guests asking about," the barista explained to me, as she handed me my coffee. "There are so many oyster bars here, and people really want to see how oysters are farmed."
Before my coffee had cooled, I had already reserved my spot to experience the South Carolina oyster farm paving the way for the state's new era of aquaculture operations, Lowcountry Oyster Co.
The best way to learn about the Lowcountry is to look at it from the water.
The journey out to the ACE Basin is a peaceful one, with rows of snug federal-style houses giving way to the emerald green expanse of the Carolina lowcountry. Once renowned for its agricultural wealth in rice and indigo, the Lowcountry today is known for its historic communities, cultural heritage, and pristine natural environment.
My travel companion for the journey is Kevin Kane, the owner of Sweetgrass Tours. A native of Philadelphia who found himself in South Carolina byway of Savannah almost a decade ago, Kane is a remarkable resource on the area, sharing with me stories about the ecology, history, and architecture of the Lowcountry.
Kane assures me "you'll love the Lowcountry guys, I learn something every time I meet them."
One turn off of US 17, and we enter a mosaic of lands and waters, of greens and blues. Towering water oak trees shrouded in sage-colored Spanish moss bend at their waists to create a canopy lining our travels South towards the ACE Basin.
Steeped in cultural history and natural resources, the ACE Basin is a 350,000 wetland ecosystem located in the confluence of three rivers, the Ashepoo, Combahee, and the Edisto. These three rivers coalesce at the St. Helena Sound, forming one of the largest undeveloped estuaries on the East Coast. Many rare and protected species make their home in the ACE Basin, including short-nosed sturgeon, wood storks, loggerhead sea turtles, horseshoe crabs, and bald eagles.
Kane shares with me that due to the residential development of much of the coast of South Carolina, many local fishermen had sadly lost their access to the water and had gone out of business. But because the ACE Basin is a protected ecosystem that encompasses the National Wildlife Refuge – its natural beauty will never fall victim to the urbanization and development creeping up along the waterfront in other parts of the state
Kane shares with me that due to the residential development of much of the coast of South Carolina, many local fishermen had sadly lost their access to the water and had gone out of business. But because the ACE Basin is a protected ecosystem that encompasses the National Wildlife Refuge – its natural beauty will never fall victim to the urbanization and development creeping up along the waterfront in other parts of the state.
Kane shares with me that due to the residential development of much of the coast of South Carolina, many local fishermen had sadly lost their access to the water and had gone out of business. But because the ACE Basin is a protected ecosystem that encompasses the National Wildlife Refuge – its natural beauty will never fall victim to the urbanization and development creeping up along the waterfront in other parts of the state
As the trees began to give way into the great expanse of the ACE Basin, I notice the outriggers and nets of several large shrimp trawls in the distance, one of the last remaining outposts for the state's shrimping business.
The ACE Basin is a healthy, protected ecosystem that provides the quintessential makings of a successful oyster farm
We arrive at Mosquito Creek, the gateway to LOC's floating farm, just as a light sea-scented mist was beginning to fall. I notice the flash of orange grundens as several farm hands hurry in and out of the rain to grab oysters to take inside to the farm's processing shed. In the distance, a flag bearing LOC's renowned logo, a skeleton replication of founder and owner Trey McMillan, waves in the distance. More on McMillan's greatness in a bit.
The Lowcountry Oyster Co current processing and storage facilities on Mosquito Creek in Green Pond, SC. The LOC team recently received approval to build out a 15,000 packing house near their current location. The project, which will take approximately 5 years to complete, is expected to bring nearly 100 jobs to Colleton County, South Carolina
There, Kane and I are greeted by JB Borgstedt, LOC's resident ecological tour guide. JB is a man who should be writing a book about his life. Born in South Carolina, he's worked on the water in a multitude of capacities, from commercial fishing, to tugboats, to dredging. Several years ago, JB ventured to Australia where he discovered pearling, or the harvesting and farming of both pearls and pearl shells from oysters. Entranced, JB became a pearl diver, working for one of Western Australia's largest pearl farms. That experience not only reaffirmed his love of working on the water, but instilled in him a passion for learning and teaching how an animal, like an oyster, is the direct product of its environment.
After 6 weeks, the oyster spat is large enough to be placed in mesh bags, and introduced to the floating farm. There, the oysters are tended to by LOC's farm team, and frequently tumbled, sorted by size, and rebagged several times over the course of their 1-year lifetime.
As the rain picks up, JB gives us a quick peak into LOC's on-land nursery and processing facility. LOC purchases its seed from Cherrystone Farm in Virginia. The decision to purchase hatchery-grown seed is intended to take the pressure off of wild-grown oyster stock and to allow the wild stock opportunity to repopulate. The oyster spat is received in late Spring, and is between 3mm and 4mm in size, roughly the size of coffee grounds. The LOC team keeps the oyster spat in their land-based nursery system, where nutrient-rich water is pumped from the Ashepoo River to facilitate their feeding and growing. After 6 weeks, the oyster spat is large enough to be placed in mesh bags, and introduced to the floating farm. There, the oysters are tended to by LOC's farm team, and frequently tumbled, sorted by size, and rebagged several times over the course of their 1-year lifetime.
As the rain quells, JB leads us out of the processing shed and toward the boat launch on Mosquito Creek, a tributary of the Ashepoo River, a blackwater river, which feeds into the St. Helena Sound. LOC's multiple sites on the Ashepoo were deliberately chosen due to the area's unique ecological benefits. JB explains to me that St. Helena Sound serves as the mouth of the confluence of the Ashepoo, Combahee, and the south branch of the Edisto Rivers. Because the area is an intersection of three river systems, comprised of waters of differing degrees, and moving at varying speeds, this creates a swirl of beneficial microorganisms which oysters feed on.
As we wind our way through the labyrinth of spartina cord grass, sloughs of oyster clusters line the mud. JB points out several areas of existing beds that are slowly becoming exposed with the recession of the tide.
McMillan has custom-fabricated six-bag oyster cages which he is working on selling to area farms. Currently, the farm has over several thousand cages spread amongst its lease sites, and is working on producing upwards of a million oysters.
"The wild oysters work as a reef system to protect against salt marsh erosion, and in stabilizing our shoreline" JB explains. "Plus, they create a valuable ecosystem where over 120 different fish species come to feed." JB shares that because of the abundance of microorganisms flowing through the area from the river systems, the area was rich with marine and waterfowl life taking advantage of the opportunities to feed. The symbiotic relationship is evident by the oyster reefs, barnacles, and moon crabs all visible as the water receded in advance of our approaching boat.
Lowcountry Oyster Farm manager Joey De Mare returning from the floating farm on the Ashepoo River.
Because the area is an intersection of three river systems, comprised of waters of differing degrees, and moving at varying speeds, this creates a swirl of beneficial microorganisms which oysters feed on.
We carve our way into the Two Sisters Creek, where the first of five of LOC's sites emerges. While oyster harvesting has existed in South Carolina for thousands of years, top-culture aquaculture has only been in existence since 2013. McMillan has custom-fabricated six-bag oyster cages which he is working on selling to area farms. Currently, the farm has over several thousand cages spread amongst its lease sites, and is working on producing upwards of a million oysters. JB pops open several floating bags and reached into grab the white and khaki speckled shells growing within. Several petite salmon-colored moon crabs desperately cling to the oyster shells as JB laughs, "symbiosis at its best."
On the ride back home, JB points out a pair of dolphins, their dorsal fins peeking in and out of the water. We watched as elegant gray heron strutted along the oyster reefs, casually peering into the waters to see what swam beneath.
Navigating the Unchartered Waters of South Carolina's Mariculture Industry: LOC Owner Trey McMillan works to pave the way for other oyster farmers
Once ashore, we are greeted by a dozen oysters and owner Trey McMillan, freshly back from a journey to Washington DC to work with representatives on legislation to continue to develop South Carolina's aquaculture industry. McMillan grew up in the Old Village of Mount Pleasant. He always had a profound fascination with the sea, and spent his early years fishing, shrimping, and crabbing. McMillan quickly carved out a successful career as a professional sport-fishing captain, and journeyed up and down the East Coast, throughout Central America, and the Caribbean. During a fateful trip to the Chesapeake in 2015, McMillan had the chance to tour an oyster farm, and was immediately fascinated with what he saw.
Savoring some delicious Lowcountry Cups with housemade cayenne hot sauce and lowcountry oyster bbq mignonette
McMillan serves as the Vice President of the South Carolina Shellfish Growers Association and South Carolina’s State Representative for the East Coast Shellfish Growers Association. But despite his fascinating career and all of the progress he's already been able to make for the growing mariculture industry in South Carolina, McMillan is exceptionally humble.
As we sat sharing oysters as the morning rain quietly dissipated, McMillan shared he had been working on paperwork for additional licensing to continue to expand the farm's footprint.
"Sometimes its difficult being one of the first to do something because there's no precedent to rely on," McMillan mused. McMillan shared that as the State Representative for the East Coast Shellfish Growers Association, he has spent a lot of time educating local representatives on what additional regulations and laws are needed to effectively and sustainably move mariculture forward in the state.
In fact, McMillan had just returned from Washington DC where the Science-Based Equitable Aquaculture Food (SEAfood) Act, a bipartisan proposal, had just been re-introduced into legislation by U.S. Representative Nancy Mace (R-South Carolina) and Chellie Pingree (D-Maine). The SEAfood Act is intended to foster and encourage more offshore aquaculture development.
"We definitely have a long way to go," McMillan explained, "But I am glad we are finding more and more allies for the development of the aquaculture industry on both a local and national front."
LOC is set to expand their farm to continue producing some of South Carolina's most premier single grown oysters. In the immediate future, LOC is running weekly tours to provide oyster lovers the opportunity to see firsthand how their renowned Lowcountry Cups are grown, as well as to experience the ecological magic of the ACE Basin. On the horizon, the LOC team recently received approval to build out a 15,000 packing house near their current location. The project, which will take approximately 5 years to complete, is expected to bring nearly 100 jobs to Colleton County, South Carolina.
I said my farewells to Trey and JB as a rolling fog crept its way over Mosquito Creek. The sweet brininess of the Lowcountry Cups lingered on my lower lip as Kane and I drove our way back up into the mosaic of land and water. I turned and stared as the outriggers of the shrimp trawls disappeared into the fog.
Resources
To learn more about Lowcountry Oyster Co, or to book a tour with them, visit their website: https://lowcooysters.com/pages/farm-tours.
For amazing Charleston tours and personalized transportation out to the ACE Basin, check out Kevin Kane at Sweet Grass Tours.
Looking for a spot to stay while you explore Charleston’s oyster scene? Check out the Ryder Hotel, which has a Lowcountry Oyster Co collab package!